With these flavors to divert you, it hardly matters that the lobster is a little grainy and dry. Another Mexican herb, epazote, is fried like the parsley, to join garlic and diced tomatoes on lobster cooked whole and served cut up in the shell. Salmon looks beautiful wrapped in dark green, slightly anise-tinged hoja santa leaves. Crab cakes are creamy and taste as if they are made with cheese, though Cam says their secret is shredded zucchini. Red snapper with coconut milk gets a fillip of browned and meltingly soft sweet plantains, as do lentils. No other chiles rel- lenos in town boast such a light, crisp batter, and the sauce - a tomato puree lightly tinged with cream - deserves a spoon.Ĭam has taken familiar forms and intensified their flavors, lightened them and added outlandish-sounding, brilliant-tasting components. I'd rather have my cheese stuffed into poblano chilies, though. Shrimp stuffed with white cheese and wrapped in bacon will seem more familiar, even with its chipotle chili sauce. Start with a bang: camarones con ajo y arroz en tinta negra, which is pan-roasted shrimp topped with fragile leaves of fried parsley and crisply browned slices of garlic on a bed of fascinating black rice studded with bits of shrimp and squid, the rice slightly puffed and chewy. For everyday lunchers, tapas make more sense at midday.įrom the tapas menu you can choose from nearly three dozen small plates. The churrasqueria, which offers only about nine meats and 14 salads at lunch, seems to draw groups, maybe office parties. Late in the evening Coco Loco becomes a throbbing nightclub, filled with impossibly thin women in their evening bikinis.īy day, Coco Loco looks merely fresh and bright. In between, the main dining room is electric with quivering shadows thrown by wall lamps and the dozen-plus rotisseries in constant motion. In front, the tapas bar has wicker chairs and tables painted with tropical fruit in the rear is a quiet outdoor courtyard. Ceramic mosaics and enormous Latin paintings cover the walls.
Imagine hot colors radiating from immense columns and swooping canopies over the bar and buffet table. Coco Loco is a Brazilian churrasqueria - a grill restaurant - and a tapas bar, two restaurants in one. Yet, as with Le Pavillon all those years ago, Washington has never seen anything like this before. The mood is raucous, the colors are riotous, and the $23.50 fixed-price dinner offers a choice of a dozen grilled meats and 20 salads in unlimited portions, with a scaled-down lunch version for $14.95. It served such small portions that diners used to complain that after spending $150 a person for a meal, they had to stop for a snack on the way home.Ĭoco Loco, the new restaurant Cam has opened with Savino Recine of Primi Piatti, is its opposite.
His restaurant of the '80s, Le Pavillon, was a hushed and formal dining room done solely in neutral colors.
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Full dinner with drinks, tax and tip about $25 to $50 per person. for dinner Sunday through Tuesday 6 to 10 p.m., Wednesday and Thursday 6 to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 6 p.m. Open: for lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m.
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